Cruise along Damnoen Saduak Canal, Following the Travel Route of the King Rama V
Travel back in time to learn a history of Damnoen Saduak canal in Ratchaburi province and experience a local way of life along the canal in the same travel route once taken by the King Rama V.
Rivers and humans have had a long, deep connection since the beginning of time. The rivers are natural habitats that nourish all kinds of living organisms. If mentioning about the rivers or canals in Thailand, “Khlong Damnoen Saduak” or “Damnoen Saduak canal” will be one of the first names that comes to mind since it is a well-known attraction with several interesting historic stories.
The Early Days of Thai Local Way of Life along the Canal
While Thailand was under a governance of the National Council for Peace and Order (NCPO), the Prime Minister was invited by the French government to visit a city of Amiens, a birthplace of the French President, and see an irrigative tourism in the city. The Prime Minister and his team were impressed with the idea and brought it back to use and develop tourist attractions along the river in Thailand. The first project took place at Khlong Damnoen Saduak under a responsibility of Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration (Public Organization) or DASTA. The organization explored and designed an aquatic traveling route that would best reflect an identity and a uniqueness of Khlong Damnoen Saduak, resulting in a community-friendly tourism under an idea of “Thai local way of life along the canal, following the king’s travel route”. The idea is to connect local ways of life of people living around Khlong Damnoen Saduak with admirable stories once the King Rama V took a visit here.
The Origin of Khlong Damnoen Saduak
In 1866, the King Rama IV had expressed his opinion that “Khlong Phasi Charoen is a convenient waterway to commute between Bangkok and Samut Sakorn and, therefore, there should be a canal connecting from Bangkok to Samut Sakorn and to Ratchaburi for even better convenience by using the Mae Klong River as a bridge between these two canals”. The king had appointed Somdet Phraya Borom Maha Srisuriyawong (also known as Chuang Boonnak) as a foreman and ordered the armed forces, government officers, local villagers, and Chinese immigrants to dig the canal. Once the canal had been successfully dug, the finished project had been presented to the king. The king had given a name “Khlong Damnoen Saduak” as the canal is a straight waterway and suitable for traveling and commute.
Later in 1967, the name “Damnoen Saduak Floating Market” has been officially introduced to the world. A renowned picture of the canal filled with small wooden boats carrying fruits and vegetables has become one of the Thai tourism’s signatures. Nevertheless, that picture depicts just a one small part of this canal. There are still local ways of life hidden inside those narrow branches of the canal, waiting for you to truly experience simple, authentic lifestyles along the canal, following the King Rama V’s travel route.
Travel Route Program for “Thai Local Way of Life along the Canal”
The travel route connecting 4 communities will firstly lead you to a community-based tourism club by Wat Chotitayakaram community. It will then take you to learn about a story of a chamberlain outside a palace at Chamberlain Jek Hourd’s house community and follow by visiting Mae Thong Yib Agricultural Farm Community Enterprise. The last stop of the trip will be led by local guides from Laotukluck Floating Market Community Enterprise.
1. Wat Chotitayakaram and the King’s Route to Khlong Damnoen Saduak
Wat Chotitayakaram is located in Moo 1 in Damnoen Saduak subdistrict. It was built in 1874 by Grandpa Mang Mangmee, a wealthy man who donated his piece of land to build the temple. He also invited a venerable monk called “Luang Por Chuang” from Wat Bang Kon Tee Nai to be the first abbot of the temple. On July 16, 1904, the King Rama V had traveled to Damnoen Saduak by water and stopped his boat in front of the temple. Luang Por Chuang heard about the king’s visit, thus, he assembled all the monks in the temple to pray the Jayamangala Gatha (the eight victories and blessings) to welcome the king. The king had given a monetary donation of 800 baht to the temple and given 4 baht to each monk. The king also had appointed Luang Por Chuang to be a provost named “Phra Kru Wora Preecha Wiharnkit” at a waterfront pavilion. Additionally, the king ordered his royal guards to arrange a seating on the pavilion and requested his royal servants to prepare a meal. The waterfront pavilion where the king sat and had his meal is currently a sermon hall of the temple. Inside the temple, there is a laterite Buddha image called Luang Por Lopburi Ramet which was built during Sukhothai-Lopburi era aged around 800 – 1,000 years. This is a sacred Buddha image that people living in Damnoen Saduak usually come to pay respect to and wish for good fortune. Furthermore, there is a Wat Chotitayakaram museum where artifacts and other antiques are kept.
2. Jek Hourd’s House (Low Hourd Seng): A Friend and Chamberlain Outside a Palace of the King Rama V
We see a red wooden door in front of us as our boat is approaching a small pier of this waterfront traditional Thai-style house. There is a big black sign with gold-colored letters in Thai, Chinese, and English that read “Low Hourd Seng” which means “May the happiness be with the Low Hourd family”. This sign had been given by the King Rama V and there are only 7 of these signs in the country. This is the second stop in the travel route program and we have got “Uncle Piek” or Sirichai Noiprasert, a fourth generation descendant, as our local guide to kindly share the story about the King’s travel route along Khlong Damnoen Saduak. These precious memories have been passing on from one generation to another. And for Uncle Piek, they are so clear as if they just happened yesterday.
3. Experience Local Ways of Life, Taste Delicious Dishes, and Paying Respect to a Sacred Shrine at Laotukluck Floating Market
Our boat is arrived at “Laotukluck Floating Market” pier. It is the first floating market in Ratchaburi province and can be said to be a living museum which welcomes visitors to experience local ways of life along the canal. There are friendly local guides who are willing to tell us stories about this place which has not changed much from the past. Waterfront shophouses stretching over 500 meters are still in use. Some are open as small grocery stores, small coffee shops, or mini galleries to showcase art pieces from local artists. As it is a floating market, of course there will be merchants rowing on their small wooden boats and selling local dishes, namely a bowl of rice topped with assorted boiled meats, pork satay with peanut sauce, Laotukluck’s fermented rice noodles with chicken curry, pad Thai, rolled rice noodles in five-spice broth, many types of noodles, and a variety of fruits.
4. Mae Thong Yib Agricultural Farm: Gaining Knowledge about an Integrated Agriculture
Paisarn Sri-eamkoon, a farm owner and a president of Mae Thong Yib Agricultural Farm Community Enterprise, takes us to a small wooden bridge crossing a narrow canal to get on a boat and cruise along the ditches to see the “hugging trees”, a highlight of this 35-rai farm. The owner and community members have had a chance to travel to other farms and brought back what they have learned to test and adapt with the farm until they have successfully been able to grow lime trees and sapodilla trees in the same area. Mae Thong Yib farm has been practicing an integrated agriculture and opening for visitors to come and learn about this farming idea. Paisarn tells us about how he starts and uses the idea to develop his farm and shows us other farm produce such as rose apples, coconuts, pomelos, climbing plant tunnels, and various kinds of vegetables. We enjoy our time talking to the farm owner, eating some delightful Thai desserts, and tasting fruits picked fresh right off the trees. You can also support the farm and the community by purchasing fresh fruits and vegetables back home. These farm-grown products would make great presents for your loved ones, too!
All of these locations and stories beautifully reflect the identities of the remaining local ways of life of people in Khlong Damnoen Saduak. It can be said that traveling under the concept of “Thai local way of life along the canal, following the king’s travel route” is the best way to support the community-based tourism which, in turn, creates a sustainable economy for the community and its people. For more information, please contact Khun Sam at 08 1684 6383 or check out their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/AmazingDamnoen.
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